Q: Does your FDE color match Magpul’s FDE color?
A: No, our FDE is a different shade of FDE. This is because our parts are anodized and not painted or made from plastic. The Magpul plastic FDE will not match our FDE color.
Q: Can I get that hand guard/sight/part in olive drab/foliage green?
A: If the green color is not listed in the drop down menu on the website we do not offer it in green. We will not be making any more hand guards or sights in green.
Q: Can I get a hand guard raw, “in-the-white”, or unfinished for my project?
A: No, we only sell finished hand guards that have our logos on them. We do not sell any hand guards raw or in the white. If you see our hand guards for sale raw they are counterfeit hand guards and are not our parts.
Q: I want to paint my hand guard. What paint do you recommend?
A: We do not recommend any custom coating or modifications to the finish of the hand guard, doing so will void the warranty on the part.
Q: You have so many different hand guards, which one is best for my upper?
A: That is something only you can answer. Depending on your needs and application there might be a single hand guard that works best for you, or you could pick from a number of them. We recommend checking with your local gunsmith for assistance on that issue.
Q: My mid-length/rifle length drop in hand guard doesn’t fit my upper.
A: Mid-length and rifle length drop in hand guards are designed to work with triangle hand guard caps. Make sure your mid-length/rifle length upper has a triangle hand guard cap to allow the hand guard to be installed. A carbine uses a round hand guard cap.
Q: It says minor gunsmithing in your instructions, what does that entail?
A: Minor Gunsmithing means you need to have the tools and mechanical ability to safely remove the flash hider, gas block/front sight, and factory barrel nut from the upper. Then install our barrel nut, the appropriate gas block, flash hider, and our hand guard on the upper. If you are not sure or comfortable with the process please take it to a local gunsmith.
Q: Why does your 9” hand guard say mid-length but the 10” says carbine?
A: The 9” hand guard will sit behind the fixed front sight base on a mid-length gas system. The 10” hand guard is basically an extended carbine length and will completely cover the low profile gas block on a carbine gas system.
Q: Why does the 9” G3ML light weight hand guard weigh more than the standard 9” G3M hand guard?
A: The way the lightweight hand guard is configured doesn’t save it any weight until you get to the G3ML10 hand guard. This is just a byproduct of how they are machined.
Q: What’s the torque spec for this _______?
A: The torque spec should be listed on the product card of the item; please refer to the card for more information. If you have questions about the part please contact us at 262-896-6780 or by email.
Q: The torque spec for the barrel nut is listed at # ft/lbs, does that accommodate for the wrench? It that a wet or dry torque? What angle should I keep the wrench at while torqueing?
A: The listed torque spec is to make torqueing the barrel nut as easy as possible, set your torque wrench to the listed spec and torque it. Trying to do conversions on the barrel nut wrench will just make it more difficult for you to install, just torque it up.
Q: What folding front sight do I buy for my upper?
A: If you are installing the sight on a hand guard that is the same height as the receiver go with the MI-LFFR. If you are installing the sight on a gas block that is 1/4” lower than the receiver go with the MI-LFFG. If you have an ArmaLite AR10 with the factory gas block you will need the MI-AR10-LAFFG.
Q: Which of your hand guards work with my piston system?
A: Please consult the manufacturer of your piston for more information on what hand guards will work with their piston system.
Q: Do I need a new gas tube when I switch from a fixed front sight to your low profile gas block?
A: No, the gas tube can be reused when installing a low profile gas block, if you change barrel gas system lengths like from carbine to mid-length you will need a new gas tube.
Q: Does your hand guard come with the barrel nut?
A: If the hand guard uses a proprietary barrel nut we include it with the hand guard. Only the Two Piece Drop In and Two Piece Free Float hand guards do not have a barrel nut with them; they use standard GI barrel nuts.
Q: My one piece free float hand guard didn’t ship with a barrel nut. What do I do?
A: Look at the back of your hand guard above where the clamp screws are. Is it threaded in the back? If so that is the barrel nut. We ship it inside the hand guard to prevent damage. Loosen the clamp screws and pull the barrel nut out.
Q: My barrel nut is stuck in the hand guard, how do I remove it?
A: Sometimes the shipping preservative dries and seizes the nut in the hand guard. If you have removed the clamp screws and removed the torque plate and the barrel nut is still stuck, try screwing the upper receiver into the nut a few turns and use the upper to pull the barrel nut out of the hand guard body.
Q: What hand guard do you recommend for my rifle?
A: It’s really personal preference as to which hand guard will work best for your needs. We have full quad railed G3 T-series, the G3 SS, G3 M-Lok, and G3 KeyMod hand guard options. You just have to decide which one works best for your needs.
Q: What barrel nut wrench do I need for your barrel nut?
A: Our hand guards are shipped with a flat wrench to be used during the install of our barrel nut if the nut is proprietary. Do not use the flat wrench to disassemble the upper as it might damage the wrench. The Drop-In and Two Piece Free Float hand guards do not come with a flat wrench.
Q: What is the difference between SS-series, M-Lok, and KeyMod attachments?
A: The SS series of hand guards can only use our proprietary screw attach rail pieces and accessories. The difference between M-Lok and KeyMod can be shown by a quick Google search on the topic describing the two different systems.
Q: I have your Gen-2 SS/G3 SS hand guard. It looks like it has KeyMod on the bottom.
A: The G2/G3 SS hand guards are not able to use KeyMod accessories on them. The bottom of the hand guard has narrower slots than the sides and the “KeyMod” you are seeing is actually a clearance slot for the QD sling swivel to pass through.
Q: What is the inside diameter of your hand guard?
A: For the one piece free floats, the G3 hand guards have an inside diameter of 1.3”. The SP hand guards have an inside diameter of 1.75”, and the 308 hand guards have an inside diameter of 1.5”. The DPMS G2 308 hand guards have an inside diameter of 1.3”.
Q: Is this little bottle of green stuff in my hand guard a free sample bottle of firearms lube?
A: NO! It is not lubricant, it is a loctite product that is intended to be used on the EXTERIOR of the barrel nut before you slide the hand guard on. Do not use it on screws, scope mounts, or firearms internals as you will be responsible for paying for the disassembly.
Q: I’m afraid to use the green loctite you supply with the hand guard. Isn’t that permanent?
A: No, the green is not permanent when used on the outside of the barrel nut. It is used to create a bed between the barrel nut and the hand guard. To remove the hand guard that was installed with the green loctite, simply remove the clamp screws and slide the hand guard off the barrel nut.
Q: I just got my hand guard. What do I need to install it?
A: You will need a solid bench vise, fixtures to hold the upper receiver and appropriate wrenches to complete the install. We recommend a gunsmith install to prevent damage to the hand guard or your parts. If you are not familiar with the AR upper assembly please take your upper and your hand guard to a gunsmith for assistance.
Q: My upper receiver rail doesn’t perfectly match up with the hand guard rail. What can I do?
A: Unfortunately, this is a byproduct of manufacturing. Most uppers and hand guards will have about a .010” to .030” step up or down where the upper receiver meets the hand guard; this is normal. In some cases the rails will perfectly align. In others the step might be greater. The only thing you can do is try a different upper and see if it meets up with the hand guard rail.
Q: I got the hand guard a while ago, and now the rest of my build parts just showed up. I want to install it, but I lost some screws/parts. What can I do?
A: Replacement parts are available on the website, including screw kits and barrel nuts. If you have questions on what screws will fit your hand guard or what barrel nut you need please give us a call or send us an email and we can help determine what you need to order.
Q: I have your Gen-2 hand guard and love it, can I install a G3 on the Gen-2 barrel nut?
A: Unfortunately no, the G3 hand guards cannot be installed on the Gen-2 barrel nuts. In order to use a G3 hand guard you will have to remove the Gen-2 barrel nut and install the G3 barrel nut.
Q: I just received my hand guard and it has white or red/blue residue on it, what’s that?
A: The residue/marks you are seeing is from the hand guard bouncing in the packaging while in transit, please take the hand guard out of the package and wipe the area with an oily rag and the color will wipe right off.
Q: I can’t get my barrel nut to align. Any advice?
A: First we want to make sure you are using the correct fixtures to support your upper in a vise so you don’t damage the upper. Are you using a clamshell fixture or other quality way to hold the upper receiver without damaging it? If so we removing the barrel nut and cleaning/degreasing the barrel nut threads. Wipe some new grease on the threads and the front of the barrel extension collar where the barrel nut pulls. Install the barrel nut by hand and tighten/loosen it 3-5 times with the barrel nut wrench.
Then loosen the barrel nut, set the torque wrench to 30 ft/lbs, and torque the barrel nut.
If it doesn’t line up loosen it, set the wrench to 40 ft/lbs and torque the barrel nut.
If it doesn’t line up loosen it, set the wrench to 50 ft/lbs and torque the barrel nut.
If it doesn’t line up loosen it, set the wrench to 60 ft/lbs and torque the barrel nut.
If it doesn’t line up loosen it, set the wrench to 70 ft/lbs and torque the barrel nut.
If it doesn’t line up loosen it, set the wrench to 80 ft/lbs and torque the barrel nut.
The tightening and loosening will lap the threads and allow the barrel nut to come around for you. It should line up somewhere in that range with that process. If it still continues to fight you let us know.
Q: I have a Bushmaster Carbon 15 rifle; what hand guards will fit it?
A: The Carbon AR15 uppers have non-standard threads on them and will not work with any of our one-piece free float hand guards, the upper dimensions are also non-standard and will not work with any of our two piece free floats, so you are limited to using our carbine drop in hand guards like the MCTAR-17G2, MI-17M, or MI-17K hand guards.